Travel to Kauai, Hawaii

The first town that one sees upon stepping off the plane is Lihue. While it isn't nearly as industrial as Honolulu, or even Kahului, it holds the county seat and is home of the island's main airport. It also boasts the Kaua`i Museum and the only still-active sugar mill. Upon heading inland, one quickly notices civilization disappearing-replaced by jungle, waterfalls, and, finally, near impenetrable mountains. But most people don't head inland from Lihue; instead they go in the opposite direction, toward the ocean.

There isn't far to go. The coast is just a few moments' drive away. From there, it's easy to get to one of the island's main resort districts.

The Coconut Coast (East Coast)
Just north of Lihue on the East Shore is the famed Coconut Coast, so named because of the hundreds of coconut palms that shade the main highway. The Wailua River runs along this coast, and a half-dozen famous natural attractions cluster around it. Fern Grotto and Sleeping Giant are two favorite sights. Kayaking down the river is a popular pastime.

Several mid-priced hotels are situated on the Coconut Coast, but the area also boasts several upscale bed & breakfasts. Most of the island's shopping is located in this area. The major mall, Coconut Marketplace, is located in Kapa'a Town, as are many major chain stores. The Coconut Coast Trolley shuttles visitors up and down the coast, from the Poipu Resort Area in the south all the way up to the Holiday Inn Sunspree Resort Kauai at the Wailua River mouth.

North Shore
Hot, humid, and lushly landscaped, the North Shore is home to yet another of Hawaii`s incomparable resort areas. Princeville, that land of perfectly manicured greens and spectacular vistas, is known for its golf as well as its other activities. Everything from hiking, to kayaking, to horse-drawn carriage rides can be found, and fine dining, world-class health spas, and plenty of shops that cater to the multi-national tourists abound.

Just past Princeville the landscape changes and the cars on the road begin to look more and more local; this is due to the proximity of Hanalei Bay and the neighboring beaches, known to be among the world`s top surf spots. In the summer a few of the beaches around Hanalei-specifically Tunnels Beach-offer great snorkeling, but when the wintertime swells begin to roll in, all beginners get out of the water, leaving it to the pros. The towns of Hanalei and Haena are small, charming, and possessed of an atmosphere unlike anyplace else. They`re equal parts village, surf spot, and resort district. Ke'e Beach, the beach at the end of the road that borders the North Shore and the West Side/Na Pali Coast, literally marks the border between civilization and the wild.

West Shore
The West Shore and its amazing Na Pali Coast might be the most famous part of Kaua`i, but it will never be the most commercially developed. About a half of the coastline belongs to the state park system. Even if it didn't, there would be no way for modern machinery to tame the wilderness. Ke'e Beach marks the beginning of the Na Pali Coast, the majestic stretch of jagged cliffs and hidden valleys that tower 4,000 feet above sea level. Imposing, stunning, ancient, and almost magical, the cliffs are a must-see for any Kaua`i visitor. The method of seeing them varies, however. Some people opt for a birds-eye perspective, as seen from a helicopter or private plane. Many people choose to take a catamaran or sailing cruise along the coastline. The most rugged people hike in and try their strength against the world-famous Kalalau Trail.

Just southwest of Na Pali, but only accessible from the Southern Shore, is Koke'e State Park, home to famous Waimea Canyon. Koke`e is another hiker`s paradise, boasting a dozen trails that range from beginner-level to advanced. Further west still is Polihale State Park, known for its shifting sand dunes. Miles and miles of uninhabited coastline extend to the southernmost part of the island.

South Shore
While it's hard to say which spot in Kaua`i is the most tourist-filled, trendy Poipu on the South Shore definitely claims the largest number of big-name hotels. Near the resort area is charming, funky Koloa Town, a restored old-style village that blatantly angles for Poipu tourist dollars.

But the South Shore is much more than a perfectly "human-made" resort. The tiny towns of Hanapepe and Kalaheo are throwbacks to last generation, while the botanical gardens near Poipu are in a class by themselves (literally--three of the five National Botanical Gardens are on Kaua`i). Kauai Coffee Company in Ele`ele is a thriving coffee plantation; visitors can tour the fields and the factory. People who shun the resort scene can stay anywhere from a simple guesthouse to a luxurious bed-and-breakfast. On the other end of the spectrum, no-frills cabins can be found at Kahili Mountain Park.

The island of Kaua`i is small; one can easily drive its circumference in a single day. In many ways it's still a sleepy little island, home to only 50,000 people. But there`s a reason it is a favorite of nature lovers, jaded travelers, and even Hawaiian locals. There is, quite simply, no limit to the secrets and the surprises of this island.

Kaua'i by Day

Ocean Sports/Marine Adventures
The Pacific Ocean, in all its glory, provides all the entertainment that some people need. Favorite swimming beaches include Anahola Beach Park on the Coconut Coast and the South Shore`s Poipu Beach Park. On the West Side the beaches are gorgeous but desolate and often dangerous. On the North Shore, it`s also best to be very careful, especially during the winter months when swells can reach 20 feet. Never swim at Hanakapiai; this beach reports more drownings than any other place on the island.

Plenty of surf schools eager to teach the island`s favorite sport are located on the shores of Poipu and Kalapaki Beach. Not quite as Hawaiian as surfing, but nearly as popular, are body boarding and windsurfing. Anini Beach Park is one of the best spots for windsurfing on the island; it also has a well-reputed surf school.

Snorkel/scuba
The crystalline waters off the shore of Kaua'i offer great snorkeling and diving. Haena State Park is a popular snorkel spot, as is Ke'e Beach. Lydgate Park has the safest year-round snorkeling conditions. Snorkel Bob's rents out snorkel equipment for the day or the week.

Sailing charters
The coastal waters off Kaua`i are almost as popular of a hang-out spot as the beaches. A number of companies offer a variety of day and evening cruises, and some outfits will even take passengers to the "Forbidden Isle" (Nihue) for snorkeling and sunning. In addition, advanced divers can visit a variety of different sites with most certified dive companies.

Golf
Like its neighbor islands, Kaua'i is a golfer`s paradise, thanks to warm weather, frisky winds, and breathtaking scenery. From Princeville to Poipu, the Kauai Lagoons to Kiahuna, the island offers some of the most technically challenging and visually stunning courses in the world.

Museums
Kauai`s few museums offer historical and educational exhibits about the island. The easiest one to reach is the Kaua'i Museum, centrally located in downtown Lihue. The Kaua'i Heritage Center and Children's Discovery Museum are both located in Kaua'i Village Shopping Center in Kapa`a.

The rugged West Side of the island is home to two other museums. The new West Kaua'i Technology & Visitor Center traces the history of the island`s development, from the ancient mariners to the latest high-tech start-ups. The Koke'e Natural History Museum, located 4,000 feet above sea level in Koke'e State Park, offers educational videos, exhibits, and short guided nature walks.

Shopping/Galleries
Kauai`s luxury retail scene is not anywhere near the caliber of O`ahu or even Maui. It`s best to simply shop for souvenirs, handmade craft items, and local products. Find quality local merchandise at the Kauai Products Fair in Kapa'a or the county-sponsored Sunshine Markets. Ching Young Village and Hanapepe Town provide a glimpse of the way shopping on Kaua`i used to be. Even large shopping centers such as the Coconut Marketplace and the Poipu Shopping Village are filled with local stores selling local wares.

Kauai By Night

Live Entertainment
Foremost in Kauai`s local performing arts scene is the Kaua'i International Theater. A big name indeed, but this "international" theater only has 52 seats. It presents original and international plays throughout the year and offers live music concerts on Wednesdays. Groups from the mainland and famous-name Hawaiian musicians often perform at the Kaua'i Community College Performing Arts Center.

Free live shows are presented daily at the Coconut Marketplace at 5pm. The Kukui Grove Center has a show every Friday at 6pm, and the Poipu Shopping Village presents a Polynesian revue on Tuesday and Thursday evenings.

Movies
Movie theaters are all over the island. There are cinemas at Kukui Grove Center, Coconut Marketplace, Kong Lung Shopping Center, and a few other locations.

Bars
All of the major hotels have a couple of upscale watering holes. Other popular nightspots include the local brewing company and a few joints that are open till 2am-late night by Kaua'i standards. Karaoke, one of Hawaii`s most beloved guilty pleasures, is offered at restaurants and bars throughout the island.

So is that it? Not even close. A few pages can barely begin to describe all that Kauai has to offer. There are kayak trips down the river, hang gliding schools, carriage tours, and SNUBA. There is keiki hula. There are day trips to Pearl Harbor.

And that, as they say, is just the beginning.

Lihue and Kapa'a: The Eastern Shore
Kauai's eastern shore, nicknamed "The Coconut Coast," is a popular tourist destination and therefore home to a variety of restaurants. It is, for the most part, a casual corner of the island. You'll find no shortage of affordable, home-style cooking, but top-notch gourmet restaurants are a little harder to come by.

Lihue is home to two of Kauai's best-known restaurants: Duke's Canoe Club and Gaylord's Restaurant. Duke's Canoe Club has two levels, the lower being a lounge, the upper a gourmet barRestaurant. Gaylord's Restaurant is an award winner thought to be the most romantic barRestaurant on the island. Kilohana also presents a great luau three nights a week.

For affordable, fresh seafood, this side of the island has a plethora of local and American restaurants to choose from. If a sit-down meal isn't what you have in mind at all, stop by The Farmer's Market and order your sandwich to go. But if all you have in mind is a great cup of coffee, visit Java Kai.

Hanalei/Princeville: The Northern Shore
Kauai's North Shore harbors some of the island's finest dining; the gourmet restaurants of Hanalei are just a few minutes west of Princeville. Located inside the Hanalei Bay Resort & Suites, Bali Hai offers Pacific Rim delicacies, live entertainment, and views across the bay to the famous mountain.

There really aren`t many restaurants on West side of the island. In fact there isn`t much to be seen of civilization. Grab something in Waimea on your way out. After a day at one of the parks, enjoy a cold micro-brewed beer at Waimea Brewing Co.

Poipu and the South Shore
The South Shore offers plenty of dining options, although most of its gourmet scene is contained within the resort hotels. The Hyatt Regency alone houses five restaurants and several lounges, two of which fall in the "gourmet" category.

One of the region's better-known seafood restaurants is Brennecke's Beach Broiler, where the beach in front of the barRestaurant is regularly frequented by surfers and body-boarders. For a different kind of ambiance, try Camp House Grill. This family-style barRestaurant is situated inside a renovated camp house--the kind of structure in which Kauai's foreign laborers used to live. Finally, a number of charming little coffee houses dot this "hotel row."

While not everyone has the same dining expectations, most people can appreciate an award-winning gourmet menu or a cost-efficient café if it turns up at the right time. Of these, Kaua'i has plenty. Its other strong suit is, of course, its ambiance. Breathtaking views, oceanfront dining, garden terraces, and other little pieces of Paradise can be enjoyed no matter where you sit or what's on the menu.

Three of the coasts have been developed to a degree, but the West Side, predominantly owned by the park service, remains untouched. There isn`t one particular spot in Kaua`i that has all of the best resorts, nor is there one spot that has a row of budget hotels. Rather, luxurious and beautiful hotels abound, and the budget accommodations are sprinkled in amongst them.

Lihue & the Coconut Coast
Kauai`s airport town of Lihue is not the most beautiful of the island`s cities, but it is head-and-shoulders above most airport districts. The presence of a world-class golf course draws players from far and wide. Up the coast from Lihue is the Coconut Coast with cities of Wailua, Kapa`a, and Kealia. Many of Kauai`s bed-and-breakfasts are tucked in various valleys and neighborhoods on the Coconut Coast. Several hotels and condominium complexes are also scattered along the coast; the highest concentration is around the mouth of the Wailua River.

North Shore
Humid, hot, and verdant, the North Shore is the site of Princeville, one of Hawaii`s top luxury resorts. The big hotels here are expensive and exclusive. Further to the west are the towns of Hanalei and Haena, and while the facilities are still lovely, the prices tend to get a little lower.

Interestingly, although there are relatively few value condominium complexes in Princeville or Hanalei, there are a number of private guesthouses, vacation rentals, and bed-and-breakfasts scattered throughout the area. Prices range from reasonable to exorbitant. Location often has a lot to do with pricing.

South Shore
Poipu, the famous resort district on Kauai`s South Shore, is proud of its history as a playground for royalty. It seems that the luxury hotel developers strive to keep it that way. However, the tenacity of condominium developers and value hotel chains enables thousands of lucky "commoners" to enjoy Poipu`s sun-drenched shores each year.

Anyone who wants to see a Hawaiian "fantasy hotel" in all its glory should come to Poipu. Resorts here put a whole new spin on the idea of a beach vacation. These accommodations stretch across dozens of acres, offering every imaginable activity.

Luxury on a more modest scale can be enjoyed at some of the other hotels in amongst the resorts. These properties have great services and amenities, but they don`t necessarily have five restaurants on-site or a man-made river flowing through the grounds. The next tier down the price rung is crowded with various properties, all within a few miles of each other, and all offering the same quality of lodgings for comparable prices. Finally, a visitor who wants to stay on the South Shore but doesn`t enjoy the condominium scene can check out any one of the various inns or bed-and-breakfasts to be found in the small towns just outside Poipu.

For such a small island, Kaua`i boasts a high number and a stunning variety of accommodation options. The options range from five-star hotels to shared-bath places in a mountain home. Decadence, relaxation, stimulation, or meditation can be had in equal doses-or not at all-during a stay on the Garden Isle.